Make a Slide / Negative Copier and Viewer
How to Make a Slide and Negative Viewer and Copier
This is my version of Colin Young’s
When I first looked at Colin’s article I mentioned my concern, ( being old and clumsy these days), regarding the stability of his vertical arrangement. So I decided to take another route using a single tube and designed to be used horizontally on a table/bench top where both camera and slide copier sit solidly on the table/bench top. I also simplified the lens housing using the actual frame of the magnifying glass mounted directly into a single piece of plywood housing. I also incorporated an additional and I think useful feature of interest to those who like me have thousands of old colour/b-w negatives, but these will require inverting in photo editing software. Any other variations are purely cosmetic or functional.
I remain greatly indebted to him for the original idea and presentation.
Off-cut of 12 mm Plywood or MDF. Small piece of white Formica (or paint it white if coloured). Short length of 6.5 mm square section plastic downpipe approximately ½ metre. 16 White diffused LED’s, (sold in packs of 20 and quite cheap), connecting wire, 2 x PP3 batteries, single-pole On/Off switch. A piece of diffused plastic, or if not available a piece of plastic cut from the clear top of a surplus CD holder and rubbing over both faces gently with a wad of very fine wire wool, reversing the direction and side frequently to obtain a smooth satin like finish. Check the evenness of the effect using a spare slide and a light source
No special tools are needed, the use of a router is optional, otherwise mallet and sharp chisel.
First comes the LED array:- Layout on the Formica 2 concentric circles and a centre point. The diameter of the larger circle is 50 mm which is then equally divided into 10. The method of laying-out the holes is as follows. From a horizontal line strike off from a protractor a point 72 degrees from the horizontal, using the compasses/divider continue striking off the other points ( 5 x 72 = 360). Using the compasses, bisect the arc between 2 adjacent points and continue round the circle to give 10 points. The inner row is divided into 5 on a circle of diameter 25 mm. Bisect 2 adjacent points on the larger circle. From this point mark off 72 degrees to give 5 points equally spaced between the outer circle. The remaining single LED is placed at the centre point. Complete the board by drilling 1mm diameter holes 3mm apart where each LED is to be sited.
A point I should mention here is that the drain pipe (mine) is not an accurate moulding hence it is advisable to make all cuts etc. under-sized and hand finish to final fit. This is a bit tedious but worth the effort involved.
Wiring itself is relatively straightforward but needs a little care, do not over-heat the legs of the LED’s whilst soldering. Pay special attention to the changes in polarity as progress is made. The theoretical wiring diagram is shown below. Finish off by connecting the remaining common points with fine wire. I have used a 100 ohm series resistor in the circuitry between the switch and + ve line to the LED board. This I forgot to include in the drawing itself. The batteries are wired in series to give a supply voltage of 18 volts. Photos of the theoretical and the completed wiring diagrams are shown below
View of underside wiring details.
The lens is a 10 Dioptre (M 3.5X) 50mm glass from a hand held magnifier. (I got mine from the same source as Colin. R.J. Manns, Opticians, 23 High Street, Chipping Sodbury, Bristol. BS37 6BA. (01454313865)‘ KIM’. Formula : Dioptre/4 +1 = Magnification. (10/4 =2.5 +1 = 3.5M) Remove the handle, cut off the projecting plastic threaded spigot from the frame and super glue the frame sides together. Cut a 50 mm circle out of the plywood using a 50mm hole-saw, this allows the lens and its plastic mount to be fixed. Care taken here will again reap its reward. Finish off so that it results in a tight fit when the framed lens is firmly pushed into the hole/ No fixing/adhesive was necessary and made it a very neat job. Fortunately the width of the mount also matches the thickness of the ply, so squaring the lens was automatic. The photo shows the details.
Assembling the camera and magnifier blocks is next, the drawing below shows how this assembly was made and gives dimensions. Drill the holes before cutting to size, form the thumb holes to each side of the slide block using a half-round file before gluing together. The only tricky part was the rebating. I decided to use the router and an off-cut of 19mm softwood for this work after having tried removing two of the laminations from the plywood block with chisel and mallet, the difficulty being the thin side strips tended to separate the laminates and the rebated surface was difficult to smooth out.
To make the slide carrier for the colour/black & white negatives was much simpler than anticipated. By chance the walls of the drainpipe supplied the necessary materials, all that had to be done was to cut 2 lengths 110 x 45mm from the sides of some surplus pipe. There is a natural slight curve to the wall sections, this gave easy loading of film stock into the slot made by just super gluing the 2 sides together along the edges only, with the convex sides facing out. Cut out the aperture in the centre and smooth the edges and remove any swarf.
This drawing of the Camera and Magnifier section together with the Slide Block Assembly should be fairly self explanatory. Drill all large holes after rebating but before finally cutting to size.
Having completed the construction of the individual items now for the final assembly method.
Before assembly,thoroughly clean any dust particles from inside the tube. Starting from the left with the camera lens section, push the tube firmly into place using a smear of Araldite. Push the slide block and diffuser screen into the open end of the tube lining it up with the access slot in the tube, making sure it is square in position, drill, and insert the small screws to retain it. Drill the hole for the switch and mount it with the necessary connections to the LED board. Next push the LED unit into your predetermined position (X) and secure with Araldite, add a piece of foam protection to its back wire side.
See sketch below for wiring the batteries and switch
Connect the batteries and put into position. Any remaining open space may be safely filled with an additional piece of foam cut to size. Lastly push the end cap piece into its position and secure with the screws, fit the support to the underside of the tube. This should result in a flat layout of camera body, lens and tube. The result, no stress is placed on the camera lens barrel; and good stability. The end result showing the complete assembly
These 3 pictures were taken with my mobile phone, I have no other cameras nowadays.
The Kodachrome slide was taken with a Paxette camera in 1965
4 x 6 Printout.
Why not have a look at my Macro Ring Light
My Apologies for the poor picture quality I inadvertantly erased all the original images so these are copies from print.
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